Before visiting our friends in Valencia, I knew little about this Spanish gem – but now I will recommend a visit to everyone I meet! We found it such a liveable city, with a super relaxed, welcoming, Mediterranean vibe.
Valencia was once a Roman colony and was (very!) briefly the capital of Spain. During the Spanish Civil War, the nation’s capital was moved from Madrid to Valencia for 11 months in 1936. It is also Spain’s third largest city – and the birthplace of paella – but is often overlooked in favour of its chic neighbour Barcelona, or glitzy Madrid. And yet Valencia offers beautiful gothic architecture, fabulous food and lots of great seaside and mountain day trips… all with far fewer visitors and lower prices than Madrid or Barcelona!
GETTING THERE
Valencia Airport (VLC) is about 5 miles/8km to the west of the city, and is served by direct flights to cities across Europe. The city is also well connected by train to the other major Spanish cities, and onwards to wider Europe, as well as the various smaller towns along the coast and Valencian region.
The main train station is the rather beautiful, modernist Estación del Norte. Renfe, the national Spanish train operator, runs high-speed AVE trains linking Valencia with Madrid and Barcelona, as well as slower regional trains. It is worth booking in advance in busier months, as routes can sell out.
For the cheapest tickets to Valencia – or any train in Europe – I always recommend checking Trainline. I find they tend to have the best prices, and offer a “split ticket” service. This ‘splits’ your train journey into multiple tickets, instead of buying a single ticket to your destination. Bizarrely, if you buy multiple tickets along your trip you can save a lot of money compared to having a single ticket – and all without having to change trains!
There is also a ferry terminal in Valencia, connecting the city to the Balearic Islands, including Ibiza and Mallorca.
GETTING AROUND
The Valencian metro system – Metrovalencia – is easy to use, air conditioned and very affordable. There are 6 metro lines (Lines 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9) and 3 tram lines (4, 6, 8) divided between 4 fare zones (A, B, C, and D). Each line will take you in a different direction, so check the map at the station to confirm which you need.
If your visit to Valencia extends over several days (which it definitely should!), it is worth getting a Valencia Tourist Card. This citypass provides access to public transport (including to the airport), free admission to public museums, as well as many discounts in other attractions, shops and restaurants in the city. You could also go for a hop-on hop-off bus tour which stops at all the main tourist attractions in Valencia.
STROLL THE OLD TOWN
Valencia’s historic old town is filled with beautiful renaissance architecture, gorgeous cafes and bars, and peaceful plazas. The Ciutat Vella – or Old Town – dates back 2000 years. After the Romans and the Visigoths, the city was occupied by the Moors for over four centuries. It wasn’t until 1238 when Jaime I of Aragón permanently recaptured Valencia for the Spanish crown.
If you would like to learn more about the history of the old town of Valencia, I recommend checking out this tour run by a local expert. After a walking tour of the famous – and more hidden! – treasures of the old town, tapas and paired wine is served in an 11thC monument.
Don’t miss…
MERCATO CENTRALE
This spectacular covered market houses over 1200 stalls bursting with fresh produce. At 8,000 m2 it is the largest market in Europe. Much of the fruit and vegetables are grown in Valencia’s huerta, an area of market gardens. The current Art Nouveau market was built in 1928, but the site is thought to have had an open air market since the 14thC.
The Central Bar in the market is *the* place to go for tapas, sandwiches and the famous Valencian esmorzaret. But prepare to earn your culinary treat – there is an almost constant queue for a seat from the moment it opens. Alternatively, you could pick up a picnic from one of the market’s many stalls selling cheese, charcuterie, fruit and bocadillos, small Iberian ham sandwiches. With so many beautiful green spaces across the city, there is no shortage of places to enjoy an alfresco lunch!
The market is open Monday to Saturday, 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. It is located a short walk from Plaça de la Reina and mere steps from La Lonja. The closest metro stations are Colon, Xàtiva and Angel Guimera.
VALENCIA CATHEDRAL
At the northern side of the Plaza de la Reina, is the Metropolitan Cathedral–Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady of Valencia – Església Catedral-Basílica Metropolitana de l’Assumpció de la Mare de Déu de València. Perhaps more easily known as Valencia Cathedral, this elegant building sits on a site that has housed a religious centre of worship for thousands of years. The current Cathedral was built in the 13thC, after the Reconquista – the Christian reconquest of Valencia. Before this, a mosque sat here, and before that, a Visigoth Cathedral.
The Cathedral’s principal claim to fame, is that it is home to (one of!) the Holy Grail. Housed in a chapel of the Cathedral, the chalice of dark red agate is covered in gold and studded with precious jewels. The Holy Grail is said to be the cup from which Jesus and his twelve disciples drank during the Last Supper. According to legend, the Holy Grail was hidden by Saint Lawrence to prevent it from falling into the hands of the Roman Emperor Valerian, who was persecuting Christians. The chalice has been in Valencia since the 15thC, although historians can not agree on how it came to be in Spain, let alone this Cathedral in this city. Whilst there are several places that claim to have *the* Holy Grail, this is one of the few recognised by the Vatican. Alongside Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela, the Vatican designated Valencia as one of the ‘Eight Holy Cities’ and as a ‘City of the Holy Grail’. Two Popes, Pope John Paul II and Pope Benedict XVI, have held mass in Valencia with the cup.
Whilst most well known as the home of the Holy Grail, Valencia Cathedral also houses several other religious artifacts, including a mummified arm of St Vincent the Martyr. It is also possible to climb the 50m tower – El Miguelete – for views over the city (more information below).
The Cathedral is open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. and Sundays and public holidays, 2 p.m. to 6.30 p.m. In April, May and September, the cathedral closes at 5:30 p.m. at weekends. Adult tickets are €8.
To get to Valencia Cathedral, head to Plaza de la Reina, a 5-minute walk from the Lonja de Seda and the Mercato Centrale. The closest metro stations are Colón and Alameda, both of which are about a 15 minute walk.
LA LONJA DE SEDA
This UNESCO World Heritage Site was Valencia’s silk and commodity exchange, built between 1482 and 1548, during the height of Valencia’s silk trade. Throughout the 15th and 16thC, Valencia was a key staging post along the Silk Road. The Lonja was a meeting place, bank and stock exchange. La Lonja covers an area of 2,000 sqm, and is made up of the Tribunal del Mar, the central tower and the Sala de Contratacion, and the Orange Garden.
The Lonja is open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 7pm, and 10am to 2pm Sundays and public holidays. Entrance is €2, with free entry on Sundays and public holidays. It is worth getting the audio guide (€3) as there is almost no printed information on display.
The Lonja de Seda is a 5-minute walk from Plaza de la Reina and Valancia Cathedral, and is opposite the Mercato Centrale. The closest metro stations are all within a km walk – Colón, Xàtiva and Àngel Guimerà.
PALACIO DEL MARQUÉS DE DOS AGUAS
Considered to be the best example of Baroque architecture in Spain, the Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas is really spectacular. The original palace here dates from the 15thC, but the current, intricately carved, incarnation was built in 1740.
It now houses the González Martí National Museum of Ceramics, the largest national collection of ceramics, dating from the 18thC, through to the present day. I will confess that ceramics, are *really* not my thing…! We therefore didn’t go inside, but our local friend told us that the interiors are also beautiful.
Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 8pm. Sundays and public holidays, 10am to 2pm. Adult entry €3. Free Saturday and Sunday evening.
LA CIUDAD DE LAS ARTES Y LAS CIENCIAS
From the ancient, to the ultra modern!
The City of Arts and Sciences – is Valencia’s most visited destination. The complex was designed by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. It took ten years to complete and €900 million… a bit more than the €300 million initially estimated. As a result, not all locals are big fans, seeing it as a waste of public money, which could have been used to tackle social issues in the city. However, as it was not my hard earned taxes being spent, I found it hard not to fall rather in love with the futuristic elegance of the complex.
It is made up of a series of buildings housing different attractions, or you can simply choose to stroll amongst the complex and soak it up.
- The Oceanografic is the biggest aquarium in Europe, with over 500 different species of marine life.
- The Umbracle – my favourite building – is a tropical garden framed by white arches and art installations. During the summer months the space becomes an open-air nightclub after dark.
- The Prince Felipe Science Museum is designed to look like a huge whale skeleton.
- The Palau de les Arts is the place for seeing the best operas, concerts and stage performances.
- The Hemesferic structure is the centrepiece and contains an IMAX Cinema and planetarium.
A combined ticket to the Science Museum, Hemisfèric and Oceanogràfic is €45.50, or you can visit the buildings individually. The Science Museum and Hemisfèric are about €7 and the Oceanogràfic starts from €25.50. Alternatively, just strolling through the complex in the morning or early evening is a lovely way to explore the site. The Umbracle is free to enter.
The large pools surrounding the City of Arts and Sciences hire out water walking balls and canoes in summer months.
THE BEST CITY VIEWS
El Miguelete – climb 207 steps and 51m to the top of the tower of Valencia’s Cathedral for 360 views over the city. Entrance is €2.
The Serranos Towers guarding the entrance to the original city also offer fantastic views. Built in the 14thC, the Torres de Serranos were one of the original 12 gates that made up part of Valencia’s medieval city walls, serving as the main entrance to the city from the north. The Towers are €2 to enter, with free entry on a Sunday.
THE OPEN AIR SPACES
Valencia is blessed with many parks and gardens, including the incredible Jardines del Turia. Such is the abundance of green spaces that it has been awarded the title European Green Capital for 2024. If you want to enjoy more of the Spanish natural environment, check out my guides to the Costa Blanca and the wider Valencian region’s best hikes and swims.
JARDINES DEL TURIA
A 9km long park through the length of what was once the course of the River Turia. The river once ran through the centre of the city, but after a catastrophic flood in 1957, the Turia’s course was diverted south of the city, leaving a huge tract of land that crosses the city from West to East, bordering the historical centre. Several urban planners and designers created different sections of the park, recreating the former river scenery. Known as Valencia’s green lung, it is an amazing open space with gardens, walks and playgrounds right through the city.
It has got to be one of the best parks in Spain – and undoubtedly one of the loveliest parks I have found anywhere. Its length means it is fairly easily accessible green space, from almost all parts of the city. A glorious and much welcome stretch of green nature in an urban environment.
GULLIVER’S PARK
A 70m long figure of Gulliver, from the children’s book Gulliver’s Travels, not fair from the City of Arts and Sciences makes for the most amazing children’s play park. I couldn’t get my head around my friend’s description of this site, until I saw a picture from above. There are ramps, slides, hidden stairways, a giant chessboard and a mini golf course! If you are travelling with children they will be delighted with running around this wonderfully imaginative playground!
THE BEACH
Valencia’s main beach is the Playa de la Malvarrosa to the east of the city centre, which turns into the more lively Playa de las Arenas at its southern end. There are a number of ways to get to Malvarrosa and Las Arenas, but there is an easy route via public transport by taking the #5 metro at the central Colón station to Marítim Serrería, and changing to the #6 line to Neptú, from where you can walk north along the boardwalk to the sands. You can also get buses from Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
FIESTA DE LAS FALLAS – VALENCIA’S FESTIVAL
If you visit Valencia between 12-19 March you will witness the city explode into colour, noise, fireworks and paella contests for the annual Fiesta de las Fallas.
Every year each neighbourhood – or barrio – designs and builds huge papier-mâché caricatures – or fallas. They are erected in plazas across the city from the start of March, before being judged and awarded prizes. At midnight on March 19 – the Nit de Foc – they are set alight in huge bonfires. Traditionally, carpenters celebrated the beginning of spring by decorating the torches (foc in Valenciano) they used over winter and adding them to a ritual bonfire. The fallas are lit in succession – the last are the prize winners. Each falla has a small model or ninot alongside it, created by the children of the area. These are exhibited in La Lonja before the festival begins, and then burned with the fallas.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Hospes Palau de La Mar – a short walk from the historic centre of Valencia, this lovely boutique hotel is housed in a former palace. There is a lovely spa, and the decor blends touches of the original building with sleek modern amenities. Dogs (and cats – WOOOO!) are welcome for €30 each a night – book in advance. The hotel is more suited to adults, but cots are available and babysitting can be arranged for €20 per hour.
Caro Hotel – the former palace of the Marqués de Caro, in Valencia’s historic Old Town. Each of the rooms is individually – and beautifully – designed, with excellent names like the “Cats Room” (sadly no cats!). Lovely swimming pool for the heat of the summer.
Hotel Marques House – small boutique hotel right next to Cafe Madrid. Lovely rooftop terrace.
One Shot Mercat 09 – in a historic 19th century building and only a five-minute walk from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, and a short walk from Valencia Cathedral.
Barracart Apartments – located out towards the beach, these super stylish apartments are a half hour bus ride – or 20 minute cycle through Jardin del Turia – into the city.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN VALENCIA
I spent about 90% of my time in Valencia declaring the food to be the best thing ever, and I really meant it! This is a city overflowing with amazing places to eat and drink.
Valencia is the birth place of Paella so if you are going to try anything it has to be this most famous of Spanish foodie delights! But make sure that you are getting the “right” Paella. Traditional Paella Valenciana has exactly 10 ingredients — short grain rice, chicken, rabbit, water, tomatoes, wide green beans, garrofó beans, saffron, olive oil, and salt. Snails are sometimes added but nothing else. It is a lunchtime dish and you should always try to choose somewhere that cooks the paella to order… or you will miss out of the very best bit – the socarrat, meaning the caramelised rice at the bottom. If you are a keen foodie, I would really recommend joining a paella cooking class so that you can learn the skills to recreate your holiday vibes back at home!
Casa Roberto – of course there are countless fantastic places to eat paella in its birthplace, but this is the personal recommendation for me! It has been serving traditional paellas for over 50 years. A pricier option than some, but if you want classic and authentic, this is the place to come. Make a reservation and order paella in advance.
Aladroc Fish Bar – superb tapas dishes and all manner of fish based deliciousness! Be sure to try mojama, salt cured tuna served in thin slices. Typically found in the Murcia and Andalusia regions of Spain, particularly in Huelva and Cádiz, it is addictive!
Dulce de Lèche Pastelria – Valencia’s hipster bakery of choice! Filled with amazing cakes, pastries and jars of my biggest weakness, Dulce De Leche!
Cafe Madrid –the top pick to try another of Valencia’s culinary creations – the deceptively innocent sounding Agua de Valencia, or Water of Valencia. It is actually a fairly potent mixture of freshly squeezed Valencian oranges, cava, gin and vodka! Something akin to a combination of a Bellini and a sangria! The elegant Café Madrid claims to be the birthplace of this Valencian concoction.
Horchateria de Santa Catalina – at over 200 years old, this is the oldest and most famous horchatería in the city. The tiled interiors are beautiful. Menu is limited, serving horchata, fartons and churros.
Cafe de Las Horas – gloriously quirky interiors and a lovely terrace for hot days. For over 25 years, this café has been capturing the 19thC literary coffee house and cocktail bar vibes.
Mercato Centrale – pick up a picnic from one of the market’s many stalls selling cheese, charcuterie, fruit and bocadillos, small Iberian ham sandwiches. With so many beautiful green spaces across the city, there is no shortage of places to enjoy an alfresco lunch!
Central Bar in Mercato Centrale – walk around Valencia mid-morning and you will encounter huge filled baguettes, washed down with a small beer or maybe even a brandy-spiked coffee. Known as esmorzaret, this Valencian culinary tradition is sort of like a daily brunch! Whilst you can find this spread everywhere around the city, the top pick has to be Central Bar in Mercato Centrale. It is run by Valencian chef, Ricard Camarena. His other restaurant has two Michelin stars, so unless you are in for a splurge, this is an affordable way to try his cuisine!
Mercado de Colón – the architect of this modernist market hall was inspired by Gaudi. It is no longer a market, but is now home to several boutique shops, bars and cafes – including a fantastic horchateria, Horchateria Daniel.
Have a look at my other guides to Spain for other ideas for your trip, and my guides to wider Europe for yet more inspiration.
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