A slightly different place to sleep for this review. Not a hotel or a cottage… but a train! I would pick travelling by train over flying any day, and I especially love a sleeper train. The UK currently has two – the Caledonian Sleeper (London Euston to Scotland) and The Night Riviera Sleeper (London Paddington to Cornwall).
A sleeper train to Scotland has been running from London since the 1850s, but it was the interwar years that saw the romantic ideal of the sleeper service to Scotland take off. Teak lined cabins, stewards in sharp uniforms and expensive bedding made for a luxury travel experience. The regular appearances of these trains in the popular detective novels of the era are testament to the aura of glamour and mystery they conjured up. The current – and sadly slightly more mundane! – service started in 1996, with the fleet updated in 2019.
THE ROUTE
There are two Caledonian Sleeper services.
The Highlander, departing from London Euston for Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William.
The Lowlander, departing from London Euston for Carstairs, Glasgow Central, Motherwell and Edinburgh.
Have a look at all of my Scotland guides to help plan your trip.
THE COSTS
The chart below shows the starting ticket prices for all classes on the Calendonian Sleeper. Price are one-way per room. Twin tickets are the price for two people. Be aware that Caledonian Sleeper ticket prices are dynamic – meaning they vary depending on how popular a route is.
| London to or from Edinburgh or Glasgow | London to or from Inverness, Aberdeen, Fort William, Perth, Dundee, Aviemore | |||
| Room Type | Single | Twin | Single | Twin |
| Classic | From £140 | From £170 | From £140 | From £170 |
| Club | From £205 | From £250 | From £205 | From £250 |
| Caledonian Double | From £335 | From £400 | From £395 | From £470 |
| Accessible twin or double | From £140 | From £170 | From £140 | From £170 |
| Seat | From £35 | From £40 | ||
| Family deal, Classic | From £170 | From £185 | ||
| Family deal, Club | From £250 | From £275 | ||
Book as early as possible – routes sell out quickly. Tickets can be purchased up to 12 months in advance. For more detailed timetable information, see National Rail’s Journey Planner or the Caledonian Sleeper website.
For the cheapest tickets on the Calendonian Sleeper – or any train in Europe – I always recommend checking Trainline. I find they tend to have the best prices, and offer a “split ticket” service. This ‘splits’ your train journey into multiple tickets, instead of buying a single ticket to your destination. Bizarrely, if you buy multiple tickets along your trip you can save a lot of money compared to having a single ticket – and all without having to change trains!
THE ROOM
There are four options to choose from on the Caledonian sleeper.
- Seated coach – exactly as it sounds. A seat rather than a bed! Unless you are on a really tight budget I don’t recommend this option. You might as well get a “normal” train and enjoy watching the countryside roll past in the daytime if you’re going to sit on the whole way.
- Classic Room – twin bunk beds and a small in room sink.
- Club Room En-Suite – twin bunk beds with an en-suite shower and toilet.
- Caledonian Double En-Suite – double bed with an en-suite shower and toilet.
All rooms are available for shared or single occupancy. Family room and accessible room options for wheelchair users are available.
Beds are really comfortable, and the bedding impressively high quality. However… being a narrow train there is only so much space available. The standard cabins are a pretty tight fit if you have luggage. Unlike some of the long distance trains I have been on elsewhere in the world, there is no real space to stash your suitcase – and unless it is cabin bag sized, it is unlikely to fit under the bottom bunk. Club double rooms have a little bit more space… but still be sure to pack light!
Inside the room, there are USB charging ports, a reading light, a thermostat, a room light and a dimmer. There are no standard plugs so if you want to use electronics like laptops on the train, charge before you depart or bring a power bank with you. Small amenities kits with an eye mask, ear plugs and a small bar of soap are included with each bed.
I’d recommend trying to book a room in the middle of the carriage. This puts you further away from bathrooms and wheels, making for a quieter night.
THE EXTRAS
Breakfast is included with a Club Room En-Suite and the Caledonian Double En-Suite. Club Room ticket holders can purchase breakfast which will be delivered to your room. Whilst it is nice to have something hot, I think it’s pretty overpriced for fairly standard fare so worth packing your own instead.
For those staying in the rooms (ie not the seated coach), there is a lounge car which serves drinks and (again, fairly overpriced) hot food. Priority access is given to Club and Double Room guests. Just note that it isn’t open for the entire journey – if you get onboard in Edinburgh at 11pm, there’s a strong chance it will be closed.
Before you board, Club and Double Room ticket holders have first-class lounge access at the station.
WiFi is available but as patchy as you would expect on a train speeding through the countryside at 80mph. So either embrace the disconnect and bring a book, or download anything you need before you board.
Pets and bikes can travel on the Caledonian Sleeper. Pets are not permitted in the restaurant cars, except for assistance dogs. Bikes are kept in a separate storage area, and you must reserve a space when booking.
THE LESS LOVEABLE
The Caledonian Sleeper has a reputation for having a few wee challenges… it has been notoriously unreliable through several different operators. And true to form, the last time we traveled, we had to get a bus for the final leg of our journey from Kingussie to Inverness after the train broke down. The unexpected coach trip caused us minimal inconvenience as we only arrived 15 minutes late, but if you have impaired mobility, are travelling with small children, or make the journey regularly, I could see this being very annoying. As of 2023, the Caledonian Sleeper was nationalised by the Scottish government.
However, I would still recommend the Caledonian as a fun, comfortable and unusual way to travel north. Given the cost of the ticket, I’d recommend you consider getting the sleeper in one direction, but just booking a standard LNER or Lumo service on your return. I suggest taking the Caledonian Sleeper northwards as waking up to dawn over the highlands of Scotland is pretty special. This also means you avoid arriving in London Euston just as the morning rush hour, in all its horror, is getting underway.
Be sure to check out my guides to Edinburgh’s foodie scene and London’s best pubs, to find a spot for a quick pre-train glass of wine! And if you fancy exploring some more unusual places to sleep, have a read about cruising down the Nile on a paddle steamer. Have a look at all of my Scotland guides to help plan your trip.
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