Paris really is a city that your stomach will thank you for visiting. There are so many incredible places to eat and drink here I think I could spend the rest of my life eating in this glorious city and never have to go to the same place twice. That being said, I definitely have some Parisian favourites that I keep going back to! I hope that you like them too.
I promise I tried to shorten this list and keep it to just a few highlights… but it simply wasn’t possible!
PARIS FOOD TOURS AND WORKSHOPS
Unsurprisingly, in a city where the cuisine is such a part of the identity, there are a huge number of amazing foodie experiences and tours you can join in Paris. I recommend either a guided tour with tastings of the beautiful medieval Marias district, or a small group tour around Montmartre or the area around Notre Dame.
And if you have a deeper interest in French cooking, I wholeheartedly recommend joining a cooking class to learn about classic French cookery (including a delicious three course lunch!).
French patisserie is considered the best in the world, and where better to learn to make your own than Paris! Top picks are a macaron class at the wonderful Galeries Lafayette, chocolate eclairs or the ultimate French treat… a croissant workshop!
EATING IN PARIS WITH CHILDREN
Eating out with children is common in France. But there are several things to bear in mind when planning your trip. Children are expected to know how to behave in restaurants, so if your little one starts to act up, it is usually expected that you will take them outside until they are able to return to the table. Most traditional Parisian cafes and restaurants are squeezey – it is unlikely that there will be much room for a pushchair. Bring a compact stroller that will fold up easily – we use the Babyzen Yoyo.
High chairs are not common in Paris restaurants and cafes. There are however some fantastic places in Paris that do have that ultimate Parisian foodie family luxury… high chairs and even changing tables.
I have written an extremely comprehensive guide to Paris with children – check it out on Thatch – have a look to find all the the best places to eat with high chairs, and my favourite places to dine out with small people and minimal stress!
CAFES FOR PEOPLE WATCHING
A buttery croissant and steaming morning cafe, or a leisurely two course lunch, at any of the city’s outdoor tables is an experience not to be missed, but there are a few that always draw me back. Take your time and enjoy the people watching just like the locals.
Cafe Procope – the oldest café in Paris, opened in 1686. Traditional French dishes – the prices reflect the historic location.
Le Nemours – perfect for people watching, and very well priced for the area. Their croque monsieur is not to be missed.
Cafe Marly – a breakfast (and lunches) so expensive it should probably be criminal, but it is hard to argue that there is a better setting! Inside the Louvre complex, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the pyramids – be sure to sit outside. Definitely one to save for a special occasion.
Angelina – book in for breakfast and Paris’ most famous hot chocolate and a mont blanc. If you don’t want to queue and don’t have a booking, there is a deli offering takeaway to the right of the salon.
La Fontaine de Belleville – this traditional-style bistrot is the place to come if you are a serious coffee lover. A bowl of their Muesli sat in the sunshine at one the outdoor tables is the perfect way to start your day in Paris.
BOULANGERIES AND PATISSERIES
If you need a sugary mid morning snack to fuel you on an afternoon’s sightseeing, or want to pick something up for a picnic in one of the city’s parks you will be spoilt for choice.
Arlette & Colette – this 17th arrondissement boulangerie serves the best jamon beurre I have ever eaten in my life.
Eric Kayser – very famous chain of bakeries across Paris, and many cities around the world. But their top option is the small truck in the Jardin des Tuilleries selling a small selection of patisseries and hot drinks. Buy yourself a croissant or pain au chocolate with a steaming hot coffee and set yourself up for breakfast at the chairs around the ponds in the gardens.
Ladurée – you can’t come to Paris without trying macarons, and these are probably the most famous in the world!
Carette – whisper it but if Laduree are the most famous, I think the macarons at Carette are the best. They also make them double size – what is not to love?! The hot chocolate is one of Paris’ best – and most indulgent!
Stohrer – the oldest patisserie in Paris, you should come here just to see the interiors, although the sandwiches are almost as pretty. One of my favourite treats – baba au rhum – was invented here.
Au Petit Versailles du Marais – if you love French bread as much as me, this is the place for you! The cakes are pretty beautiful too.
Chez Alain Miam Miam – the best sandwiches in the city!
LEISURELY BRUNCHES
Marcel – despite it being one of the loveliest areas of Paris, there are unfortunately some distinctly not great food options in Montmartre where very average touristy fare and extortionate prices are sadly too common. Marcel is a wonderful exception! They do the best Caesar salad in Paris, and an American inspired menu, at one of the loveliest terraces in the area. They also have branches near the Centre Pompidou and south of the Musee Rodin.
Holybelly – the hype is worth it – the bourbon pancakes really are that good. Expect to wait for weekend brunch, but the queue moves quickly. Register via the QR code on arrival and get a message when a table is ready. Come before 1030 at weekend for best chance of a shorter wait.
Have a picnic – one of the true French delights is a picnic on a warm summer’s day with a spread of wondrously fresh and simple produce. This is just as much a must do in Paris as in the French countryside. Head to one of les marchés – the markets – to pick up some of the best food you can find, and settle into one of Paris’ many lovely parks or along the banks of the Seine to enjoy. You can almost always find one open, except on a Monday. On Sundays, Marche Bastille is a top pick to find fabulous produce from all over the world, or Marche d’Aligre for a much more authentic neighbourhood market, tucked away in the 12th arrondissement.
AN AFTERNOON TREAT
Berthillon – simply the best ice cream and sorbet in Paris. Expect to queue at the tiny shop on Ile Saint-Louis – it is totally worth it.
LES CLASSIQUES
These are the bistros I go back to time and time again for a cosy atmosphere, superb food and a step back in time.
Bistrot Victoires – a real hidden gem in the 1ère arr. authentic, vintage bistro decor and good, no fuss, classic French food at reasonable prices. I’ve been bringing The Husband here for nearly a decade now, and it has remained a favourite throughout. There’s just something so comforting about it’s timeless quality. Good food, good atmosphere and no pretension.
La Jacobine – it’s a hard call, but after suitably extensive research I’d say this is probably the best French onion soup in Paris. Not least due to the quantities of melted cheese on top. Duck confit also very good. Tucked away in the narrow passages of Odeon.
Au Pied de Cochon – superb charcuterie, and all pork dishes you can imagine – with a fully nose to tail philosophy – and classic Paris brasserie atmosphere.
Le Relais De L’Entrecote – only serve steak frites, so unsurprisingly they do them well! Walnut salad followed by the famous French dish of tender cooked beef and piping hot fries. Served with a famous – and tightly guarded secret – sauce. If you finish, a second serving is free. There are three locations: none take reservations.
Substance – 16th arr. I love this place. And not just for it’s vast champagne selection! The menu is French dining at its best – modern twists on classics, locally and seasonally sourced.
Benoit Paris – one of the oldest bistros in Paris, founded in 1921, now run by Alain Ducasse – one of France’s most highly decorated chefs. Despite its famous reputation, it retains an authentic feel. Expect to pay for the prestigious heritage and more refined takes on classic dishes. Come for lunch for a more affordable way to taste a bit of Parisian history (the set price menu is €30, excluding drinks).
Bistro Paul Bert – huge portions. The lunch time prix fixe is fantastic value. Although if you want to push the boat out, you *must* have the steak au poivre (€36). Just take note if you like your meat more well done, the French note next to the steak on the chalkboard declares that the steak is “served blue, rare, or badly cooked”…! Likewise, if eating a la carte, the scallop starter is mouthwatering.
Les Philosophes – the vibe here would struggle to be more French… right down to the very French, and somewhat hit and miss service! Sit outside with a bowl of French onion soup, a ham salad or garlicky escargot and a glass of rose.
La Bonne Franquette – normally you want to avoid many of the restaurants just beside the Sacre Coeur around Place Tetre, but La Bonne Franquette is the exception! It is as much an historical institution as it is a local favourite for great traditional French food and wine. Throughout its illustrious history, many of Montmartre’s most famous artists have dined here – Pissarro, Sisley, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Monet and more!
Le Moulin de la Galette – one of the only remaining windmills in Montmartre. Given they have a Michelin star the fixed price meal is a bargain!
Chez Janou – buzzing and unpretentious atmosphere and Provençal style dishes. Order the chocolate mousse – it’s all you can eat…
Le Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie – picturesque café with friendly service and French classics. The real star here is the wine list – Le Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie is one of Paris’ foremost champions of natural wine.
La Fontaine de Mars – searching for that classic fillet of beef with unctuous béarnaise sauce? This is the place. Classic, traditional and only steps from the Eiffel Tower.
THE BOULLION
At their most simple, Paris’ bouillon restaurants are simple bistros, offering traditional French cuisine, with fast service and affordable menus. The first bouillon was opened in 1854 by butcher Adolphe-Baptiste Duval. His first menu offered one option, including a cut of meat and a soup (a bouillon) and fed the local market workers. At the turn of the century, most neighbourhoods would have a bouillon, effectively functioning similar to a canteen for local workers.
Le Bouillon Chartier – a real Paris institution. Founded in 1896, this Belle Epoque dining hall used to serve affordable meals for the workers of Paris. The queues can get very long and service can be brusque! Embrace it!
Le Petit Bouillon Pharamond – great service, fantastic food and fantastic value. Beautiful interiors on top makes this one of my favourite places in Paris! Very likely you will have to queue unless there just before 12pm.
Bouillon Racine – located close to the famous Sorbonne university, this old-world bouillon still serves workers, students and keen foodies alike. The food is more refined than other bouillons and, therefore, the prices are higher. The art nouveau dining room is beautiful, after a massive renovation in 1996.
THE CREPES
My love affair with Paris and all things French began at the age of 8, with an overflowing chocolate crepe from a street seller just behind the Opera. So for me, nothing can beat a piping hot crepe eaten whilst walking along the Seine, or through one of the city’s many gardens. But if you’re after a more sit down affair, then these are my top picks.
Breizh Café – try the traditional Brittany buckwheat galettes – ham and cheese galette is a wondrous lunch. For sweet, brown sugar and salted butter is hard to beat.
La Droguerie du Marais – there will be a queue, and you should get in it! The sweet and savoury crepes here are some of the best in Paris.
Culture Crêpes – tiny, cosy, traditional Breton crêperie. Transports you to Brittany (the birthplace of the crepe) and it is simply charming!
La Crêperie de Josselin – serving crêpes for over 50 years – the owners say the recipe is simple… lots of salted butter and even more love. Don’t expect fancy flavour combinations, this is the classics done deliciously.
SOMETHING MORE INTERNATIONAL
Pique Nique – good value fixed menus offering tasty, fresh Italian dishes.
Le Coq et Fils – the best roast chicken in the world? Very possibly. We always head straight for this place as soon as we arrive in Paris. It is pricey, but when the food is this good, I think it is absolutely worth it. A little drama and backstory… we have been coming here since it was called Le Coq Rico. The three-star Michelin chef Antoine Westermann opened this Montmartre homage to chicken in 2012. He teamed up with a partner and expanded to New York. who then kicked him out of the company, and Westermann came back to Paris and renamed the original Montmartre location Le Coq et Fils.
L’As du Falafel – best falafel I’ve had outside of the Middle East. €6.50 for a wrap crammed with fluffy falafel, caramelized eggplant, cabbage, tomatoes, cucumber, yogurt and “sauce piquant” (harissa).
Yi Bowl Noodles – if you’ve been following for a while, you will know I love Chinese food. And this is very good Chinese!
Miznon – fantastic French/Israeli fusion. Superb vegetarian options, and the softest of pita breads. The most popular items can run out later in the day.
Trois Fois Plus de Piment – seriously good Sichuan dishes with customisable spice levels from 1 to 5.
WHERE TO DRINK
An early evening aperitif at a small table on the pavement outside a café, watching the world go by, is almost an obligatory activity in Paris. But if you are looking for a slightly different vibe, the city also has a number of super bars and drinking spots.
Taverne Henri IV – this small bar on the Île de la Cite is always on our itinerary when we are in Paris. Opened in 1885, it is one of the oldest bars in the city. Extensive wine list and charcuterie – if you choose from the main menu the portions are huge.
Septime La Cave – it is basically impossible to get a reservation at Septime – one of the world’s best restaurants – but its tiny sister bar (four stools and few wooden crates!) is a real gem.
Le Grand Bain – relaxed and laid back, this is the perfect antidote to the sometimes slightly haughty Paris! Also does great food.
Be sure to have a look at my comprehensive guide to Paris for ideas on how to spend your time in this wonderful city – and also my other foodie guides for more amazing places to eat around the world!
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