I love Turkish food – if you have read my guide to where to eat in Muscat you will know Turkish House is one of our favourite weekend brunch spots – so my stomach was definitely looking forward to visiting Istanbul. Istanbul is as much a cosmopolitan metropolis as it is a traditional, conservative city. So it is no surprise that the foodie culture in Istanbul is just as varied. Budget street eats sit alongside uber expensive bars serving inventive cocktails. And you can just as easily find traditional Turkish cuisine unchanged for generations, as contemporary restaurants offering fusions of familiar Turkish ingredients with flavours from around the world. One of the greatest challenges on a short trip to Istanbul is narrowing down where to eat amongst all the amazing options!
So here are my current favourite places to eat in Istanbul to get you started.
WHAT TO EAT IN ISTANBUL
Manti – tiny hand rolled boiled dumplings topped with garlicky yoghurt and melted butter, and sometimes a sprinkling of sumac or dried mint. Size really matters here. Legend suggests that if you really want to impress with your manti, they should be so small forty dumplings will fit on a single spoon (although the lady who told me this provided no further information on the size of the spoon…).
Kebab – the most famous of Turkish culinary exports. I will admit I did not think I was a fan of kebab, having only previously tried the dubious late night offerings in British university towns. But the real deal were completely delicious. A kebab is essentially just roasted sliced meat, cooked over a fire. There are endless varieties, all cooked in slightly different ways… doner, cağ, iskender and shish the most prevalent.
Balik Ekmet – grilled fish sandwiches. Made fresh, they are simple, cheap and delicious. Some of the best street food in Istanbul!
Turkish Breakfast – if I have one top tip for visiting Istanbul, it is to book room only and skip the hotel breakfast. Turkish breakfasts are so epic, they really should be considered one of the culinary wonders of the world. Plates upon plates of jams, cheeses, eggs, olives, dips, breads and many, many other delicacies will appear before you. And when you think you are full to bursting… yet more will arrive and you will be powerless to resist.
Simit – circular bread, topped with sesame seeds. Looks similar to a bagel, but more akin to a crusty roll in flavour. Ubiquitous at breakfast and on street stalls throughout the city.
Turkish Delight – lokum – I didn’t think I liked Turkish delight until I tried it in Turkey. The nut filled treat was nothing like the chewy, overly sweet, texture-less version I’ve had at Christmas at home in the UK!
Baklava – glorious Ottoman era treat comprised of layers of pastry and nuts, often pistachios, smothered in honey or sugar syrup.
Turkish Tea – çay – Turkey has the highest per capita tea consumption in the world, a fact that is very easy to believe as you walk about the streets of Istanbul. Most commonly served black, with a spoonful of sugar, piping hot in a small tulip shaped glass.
THE KEBABS
There are simply endless places to find good kebabs across the city – these are just my top highlights.
Şehzade Cağ Kebap – no frills kebab shop on the corner of a market, some very limited indoor seating but mostly spread out across the street in amongst the bustling market. Very simple menu – you get two cağ kebabs, and choice of three salads and a yoghurt dip. Very cheap, very good, and very friendly. Thin slivers of marinated lamb are cooked horizontally, before being served on wooden handled metal skewers with a flat bread. As simple as you can imagine, but utterly delicious. If you can only try one kebab in Istanbul, make it here.
Osman Kebab – I enjoyed the very juicy wood fired doner kebabs and The Husband seriously rated the mixed grill. Evidently a local favourite and always busy. Don’t be out off if all of the tables seem to be full – they will simply lay out another on the street.
Hamdi – probably the best location of the bunch, on the sixth floor overlooking Eminönü Square and the Golden Horn. If you want a table overlooking the view on the balcony, reserve in advance. Be sure to get the kebab with pistachios, it’s moreish.
BREAKFAST
Privato Cafe – not an original pick, you will find this café in Galata on almost every single list of places to eat in Istanbul. But it entirely deserves its fame as the jams, eggs, cheeses and other breakfast delights are simply superb. Be sure to only order one breakfasts to share between two. I simply cannot emphasise this advice enough, the portions are humungous! Just as we thought we were finished, a entire second tray of delicious plates was brought out to us. The vibe is an irresistible blend of hipster meets authentic retro cafe. Try to snag a table outside in the summer.
The House Cafe Ortaköy – There are several branches across Istanbul, but I think the best is Ortaköy given the setting. Book ahead for a table on one of the terraces, with views of the Bosporus and Ortaköy Mosque. Expect a vast, traditional Turkish breakfast feast served in a cool, contemporary ambiance.
Sirin Bakery – this bakery is a hit when you want something a bit less extravagant after a few days of feasting in Istanbul’s fabulous restaurants. Don’t miss out on their cheese borek. Prices are reasonable and everything is made in house. Just steps away from Galata Tower. Deserts and pastries are served all day if you are looking for something sweet.
Galata Simitçisi – for fresh simit, baked continuously for over 30 years in same location. Super simple, and super delicious.
TRADITIONAL FARE
Sayla Manti – small unassuming, canteen style on the Asian side of the river serving really delicious little Manti – and they really are tiny. I stated to think they must have been rolled by mice to get them that petite. The menu sticks to what they do best: other than two types of manti, they serve flat borek, filled with either ground meat or cheeses.
Akin Balik – ever more popular and well known, this lovely fish and seafood restaurant offers a shady lunch spot almost on top of the river, which is then strewn with fairy lights at night. Many visitors head to the seafood places actually on Galata Bridge, but I’d recommend skipping their higher prices and come here for great quality at more affordable rates.
Galata bridge fish stalls – the place to get your balik ekmet. Look for those with the longest queues for the freshest grilled fish. This is one of the most popular places to eat street food in Istanbul.
Çiya Sofrası – a long popular choice in the market district of Kadiköy. The menu changes daily depending on what is available, but it is all guaranteed to be superb. Their sister restaurants on the opposite side of the street serve some of the best kebabs on the Asian side of the river.
CONTEMPORARY EATS
Betro Burger – moist and deceptively filling burgers served between warm, thin pitas. All burgers come with a chocolate filled calzone for pudding.
Aheste – for date night or something a bit more special. The £30 Meze tasting menu is superb value given the quality. This is fine dining and service to match. Quite big portions for the “construct your own” menu. The inventive calamaraki was the clear winner for The Husband, whilst I loved the seabass ceviche with yuzu.
SWEET TREATS
Hafiz Mustafa – founded in 1864, this patisserie has been continuously producing sweets for Istanbul residents ever since. Stop for a glass of cay and a mixed plate of Turkish delight after a morning sightseeing. I’d stick to elsewhere to try the famous baklava, not because they aren’t good here, but just because there are even better options. There are multiple outlets across the city, and it is a good place to pick up a nice souvenir for friends back at home.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu – if the great Anthony Bourdain declared this to be the best baklava in Istanbul, I am not going to argue. There are many, many varieties to choose from – including gluten free. Get a selection to wash down with a glass of çay and watch the world go by. Same day delivery within Istanbul if you are too tired to venture out after a day’s sightseeing!
DRINKS
After tea, Turkish coffee (türk kahvesi) is probably Turkey’s most instantly recognisable beverage. You will see people on almost every street corner sipping at small cups of the thick, bitter liquid.
Anyone over the age of 18 can buy alcoholic drinks in restaurants or bars in Turkey, although not all serve alcohol. As a Muslim-majority country there is not a culture of heavy drinking, but Turkey has been producing its own local alcoholic beverages for centuries and Istanbul has a thriving bar scene. The most well known homegrown beverage is the aniseed flavoured rakı. When water is added, it has the appearance of milk – but with an alcohol content of around 45%, is somewhat stronger.
Leb-i-Deriya – on a steep street in Beyoğlu, this roof top bar has wonderful views down to the Bosphorus. At the more expensive end, with more of a wine bar vibe.
Limonlu Bahçe – shady courtyard surrounded by lemon trees. Cocktails dominate, and are popular with the young Istanbulites that pack out the tables every evening.
Kurukahveci Mehemt Efendi Mahdumlari – expect long queues almost all day as local wait to pick up bags of some of Istanbul’s favourite coffee from this popular roastery. No café, but the place to get your own Turkish blend to take home.
Fazıl Bey’s Turkish Coffee – friendly service at this small and cosy local favourite.
Coffee Sapiens – the enthusiasts who run Coffee Sapiens in Galata buy beans from around the world, and roast them on site using a variety of different brewing methods.
I hope this guide to where to eat in Istanbul has whetted your appetite, and persuaded you to book your own trip to this wonderful city. A full guide to spending a weekend in Istanbul, with all the best places to visit, is coming soon. In the meantime, feel free to ask me any questions about planning your visit in the comments below and check out my other guides to where to eat for some more foodie travel inspiration.
Very informative, added a few place to my itinerary after reading your blog.
I am so happy to hear that it was useful! I hope you have a wonderful – and yummy! – trip!
As a person who lives in Istanbul for long time, I approve this guide. I love Turkish coffee. Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi has the best turkish coffee. The smell, the taste, everything. I highly recommend!! Great guide, love it.
Thank you – very high praise from a local resident!
Thank you for this amazing post! Your coverage is well-rounded. I’m excited to try your recommendations. Such beautiful photos too! What camera do you use?
Thank you! I use the Nikon D5600.