Not as well known as its neighbour Lake Bled, Lake Bohinj is much less developed, and there are endless opportunities for outdoor activities on its shores and around the Triglav National Park and the Julian Alps. We were really taken with the natural beauty and sheet scale of the views Lake Bohinj offers. There are cosy little cafes, boat trips, kayaking, paddling boarding, wild swims, walking and cycling paths suitable for families as well as experienced mountaineers, and quiet lakeside picnic spots. The alpine scenery is beautiful, and despite the huge range of activities on offer, it feels surprisingly non commercial. It all adds up to create the most peaceful, welcoming vibe for a laid back, adventure trip – winter or summer.
When my all time favourite author Agatha Christie visited, she declared it “far too beautiful for a murder”! Given some of the spectacular places she bumped people off, that’s quite the accolade!
Definitely a destination to add to your Slovenia itinerary!
My visit to Lake Bohinj was in collaboration with VisitBohinj. My hotel stay was provided as part of a press trip. All views are my own, and all recommendations as extensively researched and genuine as ever!
VISITING LAKE BOHINJ
Lake Bohinj – Bohinjsko jezero – is the largest natural lake in Slovenia. It is located in the Bohinj Valley, within the Triglav National Park.
The name Bohinj comes from “Boh,” the word for God and according to local legend, Lake Bohinj was bestowed on its people direct from God. After dividing up the world, God realised there was a small group of people he had overlooked. As they had made no complaints, and instead patiently waited, he decided to give them the best piece of the world – the land that he had reserved for himself.
There are three villages around Lake Bohinj: Ukanc, Stara Fužina and Ribčev Laz. Around ten minutes from the lake is the settlement of Bohinjska Bistrica. Each offers different advantages for your visit to Lake Bohinj.
Ribčev Laz is the main settlement around Lake Bohinj, with most of the cafes, restaurants and activity centres. There are a number of SUP and kayak rental shops, and a climbing centre. There are public bus connections to Lake Bled and Ljubljana. My top accommodation pick is the sleekly luxurious Hotel Bohinj.
The small village of Ukanc is at the other end of Lake Bohinj. It is close to the gorgeous Savica Waterfall, and a good base for exploring Mount Vogel and the Southern Julian Alps. I recommend staying at Hisa Erlah, a cosy, welcoming bed and breakfast.
Stara Fužina is a small village, set a little bit back from Lake Bohinj. It is only a short walk down to the shores of the Lake, by the St John the Baptist Church. If you prefer an apartment stay, to a hotel, there is lots of choice here. Apartmaji Triglav is my favourite recommendation.
Bohinjska Bistrica is a short ten minute drive to the lake, and has lots of shops, cafes and restaurants. Hotel Eco Bohinjis a great family stay, complete with aquapark!
PROTECTING LAKE BOHINJ
Slovenia is rightly proud of its gorgeous natural environment, and has sought to develop its tourism industry in a sustainable manner designed at protecting its natural beauties. Slovenia was the first country in the world to have been designated a “Green Destination of the World”. Lake Bohinj was the first Slovenian region to receive ‘Platinum Status’, and the local tourism strategy is strongly focused on delivery sustainable, low impact tourism. The organisation responsible for looking after Lake Bohinj has therefore established a set of “house rules”, which they ask all visitors to follow.
To note – as part of these rules, drones are not permitted anywhere within the Triglav National Park. All drone photography in this guide and on the Faraway Dispatches Instagram account were taken as part of official permission granted as part of the press trip I participated in.
GETTING THERE
Slovenia has a good public transport system, at it is straightforward to get to Lake Bohinj from Ljubljana by bus. The journey takes around 2 hours and tickets cost €8.50. Tickets can currently only be bought in the bus station, not on the bus. The timetable is available online, although at present tickets cannot be purchased online.
There is also a direct bus route to Lake Bled, with departures every hour during the summer months. Tickets are €3.30 and the journey takes 35 mins. The timetable and advance ticket purchase are available online.
If driving your own vehicle, the journey from Ljubljana takes around 1 hour 20 minutes, and the drive from Lake Bled is a short 35 minutes.
GETTING AROUND
Whilst your own vehicle will give you complete flexibility, Lake Bohinj is an easy destination to explore with public transportation. There is a free shuttle service during summer months, generally running from late June to early September. The shuttle can also carry bicycles.
A well maintained, flat path runs around the entire length of Lake Bohinj. The entire loop is 7.3 miles/11.8km. More details below.
There is also an excellent network of cycling routes around the southern, western and easter shores of Lake Bohinj. Cycling is not permitted on the northern shore.
During the summer months, taking a trip on the panoramic boats is a wonderful way to see the lake – more details below.
Parking around Lake Bohinj is almost always paid, and only permitted in designated carparks.
WHAT TO DO IN LAKE BOHINJ
MOSTNICA GORGE
Not far from Lake Bohini, just beyond the town of Stara Fuzina is the incredible Mostnica Gorge. Whilst Vintgar Gorge might be more well known on Slovenian travel itineraries,
The path along Mostnica Gorge is not challenging, and straightforward to follow. But in places the path is a little rough, and slippy in wet weather, so you will want decent footwear.
It is also family friendly – but not suitable for a pushchair/stroller – bring a carrier. Older children will be able to walk the path no problem, but you will want to keep an eye on them on the sections with steeper drops into the gorge below!
There are two route options – one shorter round trip to Planinska Koca na Vojah (3.7 miles/6km), or a longer route to the Voje Waterfall at the end of the gorge (7.3miles/11.7km). Planinska Koca na Vojah is a traditional mountain hut serving delicious homemade Slovenia dishes – and excellent blueberry pie! Makes for a great snack or lunch spot to break up your walk.
I thought the views from the left hand path (as you head away from the parking) were better, so suggest heading out along the right fork and back along the left to save the best for last!
Entry is €3 per person (plus parking). As with all of Slovenia’s natural attractions, this money goes back into maintain and preserving the natural environment.
SAVICA WATERFALL
The majestic Savica Waterfall – 78 metres of tumbling, roaring emerald water – is one of Lake Bohinj’s most beautiful sights.
Savica Waterfall sits at the upper end of the Lake Bohinj valley, between high gorges and rocky walls 900 meters above Lake Bohinj.
Don’t let the 553 steps (yes, I counted!) to the viewing platform put you off! This is a very family/beginner friendly walk as the steps are well maintained, with lots of pretty resting spots and picnic tables along the way.
Allow 20 minutes to half an hour to get to the top. If you are after more of a challenge, there are some lovely longer routes up through the alpine scenery from Ukanc village below.
The views back down the Valley to Lake Bohinj are also beautiful – bring a picnic or a mid morning snack as the picnic tables all boast epic views! Alternatively, there are two restaurants by the parking at the bottom of the steps.
Entry is €3 per person (plus parking). As with all of Slovenia’s natural attractions, this money goes back into maintain and preserving the natural environment.
PANORAMIC BOAT ON LAKE BOHINJ
Between April and November two electric boats, Zlatorog and Triglavska roza, operate on Lake Bohinj between Ribcev Laz and Ukanc. You can either take a trip in just one direction – or book a return trip. Each trip takes around 25 minutes. Adult tickets cost €9 one way, and €14 return.
The boat trips offer a great way to see Lake Bohinj close up even if waterspouts aren’t your thing – or if you are travelling with small children. Given the electric motor, the boats are almost silent meaning you can soak up the natural beauty of the Lake and its surrounding mountain peaks.
If you are looking to make a day of it, from Ribcev Laz it is only a short ten minute walk to the Vogel cable car station.
SWIMMING IN LAKE BOHINJ
Swimming is permitted in Lake Bohinj – although visitors are encouraged to consider sticking to the designated swimming areas to protect the lake’s ecosystems. The lake water is glacial, and changes three times a year. The ambient temperature year round is a rather chilly – but very refreshing! – 8ºC. The emerald water is incredibly clear, and shallow around the edges.
Dogs are only allowed to swim in Lake Bohinj outside of the designated bathing areas.
BOHINJ AQUAPARK
The other option for swimming around Lake Bohinj, is the Aquapark at Hotel Eco Bohinj. The aquapark was great fun after a day exploring Lake Bohinj. There are two water slides, a climbing wall above the pool, and a small lazy river and several jacuzzies. Non-hotel guests can book entrance to the aquapark for €17 for a three hour session for adults, and €12.50 for children aged 4-13 years old.
LAKE BOHINJ WALKS AND HIKES
Lake Bohinj path – there is a path right the way around the perimeter of Lake Bohinj. You can walk the entire 7.3 miles/11.8km around the Lake, but I recommend getting the lovely panoramic boat (more above) from Ribčev Laz to Ukanc (or vice versa!), and then walking back along the quieter northern shore. This 5 miles/8km path is for walkers only – no cyclists are permitted. This side of the lake is entirely surrounded by nature, with no infrastructure or development. The path itself is flat and well maintained.
The Seven Lakes Valley – forests, alpine meadows and cool, emerald lakes. This is the best hike around the Lake Bohinj area in my opinion! Despite the name, there are actually 10 alpine lakes to discover in this beautiful valley.
The lakes are only accessible on foot, with several multi day options as well as day hikes. The best day hike is a 9.4 miles/15.2km out-and-back route. The trail is well marked, but the distance and elevation gain are challenging. The start point of the hike from Planina Blato is reached by a toll road from Stara Fužina. It’s a fairly hefty €20. Camper vans are not permitted to use the road, and instead you must make use of the free shuttle bus. During the summer season, this shuttle connects the villages around Lake Bohinj with Planina Blato.
You can also start your hike at the Savica Waterfall car park, but this is a much more challenging route. It is extremely slippery and steep in wet weather, and the Lake Bohinj tourism centre asks visitors not to use this route after rain.
Swimming is not allowed in the Triglav Lakes to protect the sensitive habitats.
Mount Vogel and The Vogel Cable Car – a cable car connects the village of Ukanc, with the Vogel Ski Centre. The cable car takes ten minutes to whizz you to the top, running every half an hour. Even if you don’t want to do any hiking at the top, the views from the cable car at the top station are epic. It operates daily from 8am until 6pm, costing €13.50 for adults and €9 for kids. At the top, there are multiple alpine trails to choose from, of varying difficulties and lengths.
LAKE BOHINJ MUSEUMS AND CULTURE
Alpine Dairy Museum – less about cheese (although there is a section on cheese making and you can buy the Bohinj cheese here!) and more about agricultural life and local, cultural history. Sections on the upper and lower pastures, and on the lives of those working in the dairy industry. Including individuals.
Oplen House – restored traditional Bohinj farmhouse, offering an insight into life in an alpine village. Adult tickets are €3.50.
St John the Baptist Church – a beautifully picturesque church on the edge of Lake Bohinj. The church itself is over 700 years old, with the gorgeous frescoes on the ceilings dating from the 13thC. You can find lots of fascinating information on the details of the frescoes on the Visit Bohinj website. Adult tickets are €3.50.
Meet Zlatorog – a golden horned ibex of Slovene folklore who lives on Mount Triglav. There is an elegant statue of Zlatorog on the lake’s edge, in Ribčev Laz.
WHERE TO EAT IN LAKE BOHINJ
Planinska koca na Vojah – traditional mountain hut along the Mostnica Gorge route, serving delicious homemade Slovenian dishes – and excellent blueberry pie! Makes for a great snack or lunch spot to break up your walk. They also offer simple accommodation.
Hotel Bohinj – non-guests are welcome to dine at this beautifully renovated luxury hotel. The menu changes daily, with 2 or 3 choices for each of the 3 courses. Food is delicious, with lots of local produce. The vibe is fine dining.
Gostilna Bohinj pr’ Mihovc – the oldest Guesthouse in Bohinj. Great pizzas.
Planinski dom Savica – one of two mountain huts at the parking for Savica Waterfall. Whislt the location means the prices are on the higher, touristy side, we found the food to be very good. Traditional Slovenian dishes as well as other international options. The best homemade lemonade I had in Slovenia! They also offer simple, clean and comfortable rooms.
THE BEST PLACES TO STAY IN LAKE BOHINJ
Hotel Eco Bohinj – super family friendly stay in Bohinjska Bistrica, with a small cinema, bowling alleys and an aquapark! We had such fun staying here with The Baby. The aquapark was great fun after a day exploring Lake Bohinj – two water slides, a climbing wall above the pool, and a small lazy river and several jacuzzies. Half board room rates include an excellent buffet, with traditional Slovenian dishes as well as more generic international fare. My stay at Hotel Eco Bohinj was provided as part of a press trip. There was no obligation to share a review as part of my visit. All views are my own, and all recommendations as extensively researched and genuine as ever!
Hotel Bohinj – recently renovated, this is the luxury stay in Lake Bohinj! The minimalist, sleek interiors have a super calm vibe and service is superb. Excellent spa. Only a few mintues short steps through the garden (and past the fire pit) to the edge of Lake Bohinj in Ribčev Laz.
Hotel Majerca – the best breakfast in Stara Fužina! Décor is cosy alpine – think sleek wood, crisp white sheets and snuggly blankets. Sauna and terrace with wonderful views. Location is excellent for keen walkers.
Apartmaji Triglav – best of both worlds in Stara Fužina with lovely self catering apartments, and an onsite restaurant and spa. Breakfast and mountain views included.
Chalet Apartments ALPIK – refreshingly well appointed kitchens in lovely self catering apartments with all the comfort in Ukanc.
Hisa Erlah – cosy, welcoming bed and breakfast in Ukanc. SUPs and kayaks are available to borrow by guests for free.
Sunrose 7 Boutique Hotel – spa, fine dining and gardens in Bohinjska Bistrica.
Slovenia is, without doubt, one of the most beautiful countries that I have visited – check out the rest of my guides to Slovenia for more inspiration to start planning your own visit.
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